Being Back

I thought that the first few weeks would hit me the hardest, like withdrawal from a drug or waking up from the perfect dream. Instead, I felt absolutely great being back home in California. It's bright and sunny every day, my university campus is stunningly beautiful, and I quickly fell back into the rhythm of school life and extracurricular activities. I think in keeping busy, it kept my mind off thoughts about my life in Europe. I didn't long for the road - I was content being home.

Then, it slowly creeped into my everyday thoughts. A flash of memory here, whiff of familiar scent there. Dancing through throbs of people on the streets of Bairro Alto in Lisbon, where the streets become the party. Stepping off the plane in Copenhagen and seeing a white wonderland for the first time. And the people I knew - I can still picture their faces in my mind even though faces are the hardest to remember. The way he'd crinkle his face after taking a shot of tequila. The way she'd smile and shake her head at my crazy dancing. Just brief moments of unexpected flashbacks.

It was not immediately obvious to me that I would miss Sweden and my time abroad. It almost seems like a distant memory compared to the immediacy of the here and now. People post oversaturated photos with captions like "I left my heart in ____," and I laughed at the corniness of those quotes. But the truth is, part of me still lives in my memories of Sweden and Europe and will never quite escape into the present day. It's nostalgia, it's the saudade my Portuguese tour guide so aptly described - a deep and profound longing for someone or something which can never be regained.

Through the Baltic States (...where's that?)

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Had you asked me this question 6 months ago, I would have been at a loss. But honestly speaking, the three Baltic countries (Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia) are hidden gems of Europe and well worth a visit! Each capital, a mere 4-5 hours apart, holds a unique culture and history.
(Side note: I put all the places I recommend in bold letters, in case you want to visit them too!).

St. Anne's church, Vilnius

After a LONG bus trip from Krakow to Warsaw to Vilnius, I excitedly hopped off the bus to explore the capital of Lithuania. A thick morning fog hung over the city, making the atmosphere seem a little dark and uncertain. I was really relieved when I navigated to my host's home, even though it was only 10 minutes from the station. As I watched the sun rise from his apartment window, I gradually saw the skyline of a really beautiful and majestic (though small) city.

I meant to take a little nap before going out, but I ended up waking an hour late for the city walking tour! Actually, I thought I was right on time but I had no idea that I crossed over one time zone and an hour (?) ahead. Fortunately for me, I caught the tail end of the tour just as they crossed the main square and sprinted after them. The guide took us to the independent artists' republic of Uzupis. This "country" actually has its own constitution and national holiday (April 1st)! Vilnius is sort of known as the eccentric sibling of the Baltic States, but in the awesomest way.

Jesus, the world's first backpacker

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I also loved the Literatai (literature) street, a collection of artwork depicting quotes and images of Lithuanian writers (or anyone connected to their country in any way).

I was soon joined by my travel friend, and we spent the rest of our time in Vilnius enjoying the view from atop the Gediminas' Tower, walking about the Old Town area, and...

... and drinking! We had to take advantage of the cheap prices before we got to Latvia & Estonia, since both use the Euro. Sorry future travelers, but Lithuania is also joining the Eurozone in 2015 so we were lucky.

į sveikatą from Snekutis Bar!

Bidding farewell to Vilnius, we set off for the largest of the Baltic capitals - Riga, Latvia! Riga definitely was a big change from Vilnius. The whole area felt busier, more people and sound and presence. I especially loved the architecture in Riga! One street in particular, Elizabetes Iela, is an ornate masterpiece of Art Noveau design.

Love the design of House of Blackheads

Outside of sightseeing and nightlife (we did spend Halloween in Riga, after all), there was not much else we saw in our brief 1.5 days there. However, I will never forget how happy I was to find this LIFESAVER of a buffet. Lido is a chain restaurant that serves traditional Latvian food in a self-serve style, so you pay for as much as you eat. Delicious food, good prices, and charming decor! A+

Our last stop, and sadly the shortest, was Tallinn, the charming capital of Estonia. Out of the three Baltics, I liked Tallinn's Old Town the most. However, the weather did not reciprocate my feelings because as soon as we stepped into the city, it started POURING. I've never seen it rain so hard in my life! By the time we sloshed our way to the Tallinn city museum, we were soaked from head to toe.

The city museum was really great (especially since I've grown a little tired of city museums), and featured interactive and detailed exhibitions of the city's history. Another place I highly recommend! To dry off even more, we went to this chill restaurant called Must Puudel. The decor was a little tongue-in-cheek throwback to Communist times, with an artistic twist. I ordered a delicious beet soup - sounds strange but it's perfectly sweet and salty (and warm!).

It was completely dark outside by the time we finished eating, but we wanted to see more! Tallinn is the perfect place to wander about and get lost, with it's winding cobblestone streets and little shops.

We also stumbled upon the Luscher & Matiesen Wine Museum, a wine cellar + exhibition room that provided the perfect hideout from the cold. I think they usually charge admission, but the guy just waved us in (maybe we looked really sad and cold). There was nobody inside, so we just took a bunch of pictures and even sampled some glögi (mulled wine). 

Our wandering soon came to an end, and we faced a looong night ahead of flying, overnight layovers, and running out of money (me). I actually was alone and stuck in the Copenhagen airport, just 10 krona short of buying my train ticket to Lund because the currency exchange screwed me over. That situation sucked, to say the least, but I was so incredibly thankful when one man gave me his leftover change and sent me on my way. I have never been so glad to fall in my bed and sleep soundly, knowing I finally made it back home.

Wowed by Krakow

Sorry I couldn't resist turning the title into a rhyme. But Krakow was honestly an amazing city, and I didn't have nearly enough time to do everything I wanted to do!

To begin with, Krakow was a very cold and foggy change from Prague. I was freezing the whole time, no matter how many hats I layered on my head! However, this also paved the way for some awesome late-night adventures and cool photos (check the one above - main market square by night!).

My one true Polish love, PIEROGI

My first official day in Krakow was packed to the brim. I went on an amazing free walking tour (highly recommend!), made lunch with my CS host, and went exploring by night. She showed me Krak's Mound, which would've been a great view...except the fog was so thick we could barely see in front of us!

It was definitely thrilling (and kind of scary) to stumble around the hill area in the dark. We even found an unfinished church and some rainbow stairs with inspirational quotes, which I absolutely loved!

Next, my host took me to my first pole dancing class at Fly Away studios! Okay, laugh all you want but pole dancing is not easy and my host was definitely better than me. It's been several months since I've been in a dance studio, but I love learning all forms of dance and enjoyed the challenge. :)

Lover's Bridge

On my second day, I went on a poignant and thought-provoking tour of the Auschwitz-Birkenau memorial site. Though I didn't have much money left, this was a place I felt was very important to see and understand. The museum and tour did not leave me in tears, but I definitely was shocked that any human could have survived those conditions. It was impossible for me to wrap my mind around the sheer scope, the number of deaths and the severity of the situation at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

How can a beautiful sunset light up this terrible place?

This trip basically occupied the entire day, but I still had time for one more walking tour before I left Krakow for good. The free Jewish Quarter tour, offered by the same company, took me on a very informative walk around the Kazimierz area. We saw some of the filming locations for Schindler's List, and learned about the quarter's role in isolating the Jewish people prior to their deportation to concentration camps. This tour basically concluded my trip (well I did spend one more crazy night dancing at a club), but I left with some food for thought as well as a greater appreciation for the city of Krakow.

Future Krakow to-do list:

1) Schindler's factory

2) Rynek Underground museum

3) MORE PIEROGI!!!!!

Where I've gone, where I'm going, and where I want to go...

Sorry it's been another hiatus period for this blog! I haven't even finished writing about my last trip yet :( But life has been going by crazy fast in Lund, and I am so glad that I chose to spend my last month here enjoying this little town instead of traveling every other day!

So before I leave on my final holiday trip, here is a checklist of places I've seen or plan to see, as well as future travel plans!

Visited

1. Sweden (Lund, Malmo, Gothenburg, Stockholm!)
2. Spain (Barcelona, Ibiza, Seville, Cordoba, Granada)
3. France (Paris)
4. UK (London, Stratford-upon-Avon, Brighton)
5. Germany (Berlin, Hamburg, Cologne, Bonn, Munich)
6. Denmark (Copenhagen)
7. Norway (Oslo)
8. Czech Republic (Prague)
9. Austria (Vienna)
10. Hungary (Budapest)
11. Poland (Gdansk, Malbork, Torun, Warsaw, Krakow)
12. Lithuania (Vilnius)
13. Latvia (Riga)
14. Estonia (Tallinn)
15. Italy (Rome)
16. Portugal (Lisbon, Sintra, Cascais)
17. Belgium (Brussels, Brugge)
18. United States (CA, CO, AZ, NV, DC, VA, MD)
19. Mexico (TJ, Ensenada)
20. Taiwan

Visiting Someday...

1. Salzburg & Innsbruck (the hills are alive~)
2. Amsterdam & rest of Netherlands
3. Ireland, Scotland & around the UK
4. Greece
5. Morocco
6. Istanbul
7. Croatia
8. Bulgaria
9. Romania 
10. Cesky Krumlov, Kutna Hora (Czech Republic)
11. Laplands
12. Helsingor
13. Switzerland 
14. Dresden, Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria (Germany)

How I lost (almost) everything and still found something

Prague, Krakow, Vilnius, Riga, Tallinn. I never dreamed of going to these places (a few months ago, I couldn't even point them out on a map), but there I was on a train to Copenhagen airport, ready to tackle the world! But something happened near the beginning of the trip that changed everything...

Accurate representation of my pre-trip attitude

My first stop was Prague, a place I visited (and fell in love with) a month ago. The city really is so beautiful that it has earned a special place in my heart. But cheesiness aside, this was also where I got pickpocketed and lost almost everything important. From the moment I noticed my backpack was open to the final phone call with my credit card company - those were some of the most stressful and terrifying hours of my life. I considered going home. Calling it quits. But the traveler inside of me was determined to press on and see what I came to see. I had to finish the trip on a seriously shoestring budget and no phone (aka no instagram. or wifi. or calling.), but this setback also forced me to adapt and make the most of my circumstances.

No smartphone? Every meal was savored, every sight appreciated, every conversation fully engaged. No credit card or cash? Made me thankful, from the bottom of my heart, for my travel friends and their generosity. It also forced me to spend carefully, on the things that really mattered. I learned to guard my camera with my life, to keep my passport in the safest place possible, and to communicate without technology. It really changed my perspective on life (and I'm not quoting some travel book, I promise!).

So now that you've gotten through ALL that text, here are some pretty pictures from my favorite spots! Though I think beautiful might be the more appropriate word.

Other than the pickpocketing incident, I did so much in Prague over those three days and loved every second of it! I saw the modern Czech Symphony Ballet, visited the Jewish Quarter and the gorgeous Spanish Synagogue, tasted monk-brewed beer at Strahov Monastery and peeked into their stunning library (how do you even study here??), climbed to the top of the Petrin Hill and Vysehrad (founding place of Prague) for different viewpoints of the city, and RAVED ALL NIGHT at the Transmission music festival!

 The English major inside of me is crying happy unicorn tears.

Credit: claudia_dias

credit: Andurinha

 Monk's beer - the best!

 Prague's own Eiffel

Transmission Festival was a big highlight, since it was the actual reason I came back to Prague. 11 crazy hours dancing to the best in trance music and amazing light shows - what more could I ask for? Markus Schulz absolutely slayed, and his two-hour set had me dancing the whole time, smiling from ear to ear.

So in the end, what exactly did I find in Prague (and the rest of my destinations)? I won't give some corny quote about finding myself,  but I can say that I discovered the goodness of people, the beauty of sights both man-made and natural, and the fact that you really can't put a price tag or quantify the experience of seeing the world.

Magical Weekend in Poland

5 days, 3.5 cities - let's start! Gdansk is a beautiful seaside city filled with an inexplicable charm, and it's a must-see in my books for anyone visiting Northern Poland. The docks and Old Town by night are the MOST romantic sights I've ever seen on my travels! I admit I'm a sucker for pretty canals and rivers... :)

This is the central train station in Gdansk! Every building in the Old Town area is built in medieval brick fashion, giving me the feeling that I've jumped inside a fairytale. Not everything was rosy and pretty, of course, and the toll of the Communist times was still evident in areas outside of Old Town.

I wish I had better nighttime shots of the city, but walking down the dock and Dlugi Targ (long street) to the sound of street violinists was something that made me smile and feel at peace.

On the second day, I took a train to Malbork to see the largest brick castle in the world! This massive structure was once home to the Teutonic Knights (from Germany?), so the audioguide explained how each of the rooms were formerly used. I had to practically run through the maze of rooms so that I could see everything before closing time, but it was a great adventure - I had no idea what room I would stumble upon next!

That evening, I went with my hostel roommates to a hole-in-the-wall pub called Jozef K. Supposedly, if I wrote a wish and put it in the drawers of the table, it would come true. In retrospect, I should've wished that my arms would stop itching because I was viciously bitten by some bug the night before... Anyways, this was a really chill place (reminds me of Budapest's ruin pubs) and I enjoyed hanging out with new friends.

 

I decided to spend my last morning in Gdansk at the Solidarity Museum, a newly-built center documenting the Solidarity Movement (which ended Communist control in Poland) which began in the Gdansk shipyards. I really loved the multimedia, interactive exhibits that documented the history of this incredible movement, something which I feel is important for all visitors to know. Highly recommended!

All too soon, it was time to say goodbye to Gdansk and move on to the little medieval town of Torun. This is the birthplace of Copernicus (pretty important, I guess) and GINGERBREAD!!!! Maybe the thought of gingerbread-flavored everything might sound like overkill, but it's really that good.

 Home of the famous astronomer

I attempted to visit a Gingerbread workshop, but it was overrun by little Polish schoolkids on a field trip. I was lucky enough to instead meet an American couple, and we ended up bar hopping together the whole night! First, we sipped on aged whiskey inside a Coffee & Whiskey cafe (super comfy and chill).

With a "cooling" rock inside! Classy~

Next, we went to a microbrewery which made some delicious soup and BEER. Who knew the Poles could brew great beer? We each had a flight of samplers, my favorite of which was the gingerbread beer.

At this point, I realized that my phone had gone missing?? We went back to Coffee & Whiskey and scoured the area for my baby, but no avail. Then the waiter came to help me search, stuck his hands in the couch, and VOILA there was my phone! It was like magic (I'm only half-kidding)!! I officially love this place and the staff <3 Time to celebrate my recovered phone at Manekin restaurant, with Polish pancakes and more beer!

The rest of the night was rather unfruitful, as we wandered in and out of a couple more pubs but didn't want to buy more drinks. We ended up just walking by the river and parted ways afterwards. I might never see them again, but I'm so thankful that I had an amazing evening with some spontaneously-made friends!

Before leaving Torun the next day, I visited the Historical Museum (not too interesting...) and climbed the tower for a view of the city - and some random Star Wars parade. Wait...what?

My final stop, Warsaw, went by in a blur. I failed to see the Warsaw Rising museum, but went to a vodka tasting event at my hostel and a tour of the beautifully restored Old Town (with more vodka tasting at the end, haha). And like every trip, it was all too soon that I had to hop on the train and head on home...

Warsaw's own Little Mermaid

Do widzenia, Polska! I'll return soon <3